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February 2007

Fear in the heart of India

India is known to be a land with enormous differences dividing the poor and the rich. However, few people know that there is also a great contrast there between living freely and living in fear. The country is the scene of a number of forgotten, regional conflicts that despite their seriousness rarely make headlines around the world. The conflict taking place in the state of Chhattisgarh, in the heart of India, is one of these crises. For more than 20 years, a conflict has raged between the government and a Maoist movement.

Dornapal Street
© MSF - Dornapal Street

Approximately 45,000 people have been forced to flee their homes because of the violence. Because returning to their villages may cost their lives, these people have sought safety in the jungle or in a camp for displaced persons. The Dornapal camp is one of 20 such camps that have sprung up in the past year and a half. Today Len Pulles, a nurse working with Médecins Sans Frontières (MSF) is on her way to the camp.

Thick with tension
When MSF’s white jeep pulls into the Dantewada district in southern Chhattisgarh, the air is thick with tension. Along the side of the road, armed soldiers watch everything closely. Less than a day ago, a businessman was violently killed and it seems for a moment that the team won’t be granted permission to enter the displaced persons camp. However, after discussions with the police in Sukma, a village on the district’s border, it appears that the situation is safe enough and Len’s visit is allowed to take place.

Driven away
On the way to the camp, the landscape is mostly flat with some large, old trees, palm trees and, here and there, a small lake. Aside from a few passing cars, including a truck that has probably been used to transport food or supplies, the road is empty. As soon as the soldiers are out of sight, Len can breathe a little easier. She says, “As usually happens in conflicts, the people are the victims of the fighting. In Chhattisgarh, people have been driven out of their villages. They lose their house, land, cattle and cultural roots. Going back means that people have to risk their lives. So they are condemned to a life in the camps.”

A sea of corrugated tin roofs
At first glance, Dornapal looks like a normal village. However, slowly in the fields behind the houses one spots a sea of corrugated tin roofs. It is only when the jeep drives through the camp entrance that one notices how small the huts are and how closely they’re packed together. People stand around waiting near the few available water pumps. One man carries water to a homemade shower built by the camp’s residents. It turns out to be nothing more than wooden planks covered with saris. A field operates as the sanitary facility. What that means exactly becomes clear when a young girl squats down to do her business.

Research on nutrition
Len: “The people live here in terrible, unhygienic conditions that can lead to illness and malnutrition.” In the past few months she has focused on the situation among children in the camp younger than five. Today, as she has done on previous days, she visits the camp to determine the health status of the children. “I’m busy carrying out some research on nutrition: it’s a big challenge, but I enjoy doing it. We may open a feeding centre. In addition, we’re going to target the most vulnerable group in the camp: mothers and children.”

Dornapal Street
© MSF - water supply in Dornapal camp

Weighing and measuring
Despite the squalid living conditions, the atmosphere in the large tent at the camp’s edge is relaxed and one can hear laughter. Mothers with golden nose rings, dressed in colourful saris, sit on the tarp that covers the ground. They wait patiently as members of a local aid organisation distribute food. Children play or look around curiously. Recently, Len has examined many children in this tent. She measures their height, weighs them and tests them for malaria. While the team prepares its supplies and Len begins to examine the children, a watchman on the edge of the camp monitors all of the activity closely.

Facing fear every day
Women emerge from the jungle with stacks of wood on their heads and a child herds some skinny cows. It seems like a peaceful picture, but rumours circulate that a displaced persons camp was attacked some time ago because it was thought to be a training camp. While it’s not visible on the surface, Len has the impression that the camp residents live in fear every day. In addition, some have experienced traumatic things. “In conflict situations, it’s very common to find sexual violence,” says Len. “We hear rumours about it now. We have to do more research and if it is true, I hope to give that kind of help.”

The future
Once every child has been examined and the tent empties out, all of the supplies are packed up again. It has been a long day, but Len is satisfied. Three children were found to be malnourished and will be taken to the nearest hospital by MSF the following day. The parents cannot afford to pay for the trip themselves and they also can’t leave their other children. Len: “We have made a deal with the hospital that they will take the children now, but that can only last for one week. We’re now exploring if it would be possible for us to take over the children’s care. If we start a feeding centre, we would be able to give the needed assistance to help these children become healthy again.”

MSF in Chhattisgarh
The conflict taking place in Chhattisgarh is one of India’s forgotten regional conflicts. For more than 20 years, fighting has raged between Maoist rebels and the state. Approximately 45,000 people have been forced to leave their homes. Some 30,000 of them live in camps for displaced persons, the other 15,000 people have sought refuge in the jungle.

In the Dornapal camp where some 13,500 people live, MSF is exploring the possibility of setting up a feeding centre. Due to the conflict as well as the area’s difficult terrain, the population living in remote villages has little or no access to health care. MSF runs a mobile health post to bring medical care to these people.

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