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As I stepped off the plane in South Sudan, in the middle
of nowhere, on a continent I had only seen as a tourist, I realised no
amount of briefing, videos, books, nor courses could prepare me for the
tour I was about to take. Seeing people live in absolute poverty, deprived
of human dignity, was something that slaps you in the face and makes
you wonder why you have ever complained.
It is one thing to travel and
work and prepare yourself, but another to add the depressing heat, the
dust, the smell, the stress and simply the reality to it. These people
have literally nothing, maybe a blanket stained with urine and diarrhoea
from lost children, a bucket and a spoon for the entire family, the kids
play with dirt and old batteries. During decades of war, nothing has
been considered ‘a right’, as we say in developed countries,
not food, water, education, nor healthcare.
The project coordinator took me on a tour and while my Médecins
Sans Frontières (MSF) colleagues were greeting and smiling and
coping, I was fighting back a big lump in my throat, struggling to comprehend
the tragedy of it, clenching my teeth to get over it and toughen up.
After the tour, I went down to the clinic to see if I could orientate
myself, instead I ended up resuscitating a dehydrated, unconscious 3
year old, fumbling through protocols on a case we would be talking about
for weeks, back home on the Emergency Department.
At first, it was hard to go to the clinic everyday in a new t-shirt
and skirt, when many siblings have a pair of undies between them. The
water pumps MSF built here are busy day and night and most diseases are
the result of a lack of hygiene. These communities have not been vaccinated
at all and that, together with their malnourished status, makes them
extremely susceptible to epidemics.
Initially, the clinic seemed like total chaos, which was ‘band-aiding
up’ a problem in desperate need of an international outcry and
a thousand times more people and resources. But after a while, it appeared
to be a huge achievement considering ‘what was’ and for the
people here, absolutely vital to their survival. Once you’ve thrown
out a placenta in a dirty bin, assessed kids dying of measles, put in
an IV in a hot, dark, sweaty mud hut crowded by coughing TB patients
and asked a gun shot wound victim to wait ‘a few’ more weeks
for a plane, it’s pretty hard to complain about the hot nights,
the fly hole toilet and the lack of fresh food.
Having said that, the people are still laughing and the kids still enjoy
playing with their rubbish. I picked up a disabled, blind, 4 year old
boy today by the arms and swung him gently around, he seemed to be having
the time of his life. The kid we thought would never make it, did this
time and the woman who we couldn’t help, is still happy we were
there.
It’s been a week now and I’ve delivered and lost babies,
learnt more than in 3 months back home and I’ve even started running
a cholera treatment unit. Although I am tired, stressed and hot, it isn’t
really possible to be ‘homesick’ because home seems like
another planet and century. You just realise this is the most important
work you will ever do and you should be thankful everyday that you have
a safe home to go to where your relatives and friends will grow old with
you, where you can learn and work without being hungry and where you
can have children who will grow up.
Read other articles
on Sudan
Read other letters home
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